| 2NT | 5 trumps, extra values, balanced |
| 3 |
Any minimum (but see 4 |
| 3 |
5 Trumps, extra values, unbalanced |
| 3 |
6+ Trumps, extra values, balanced |
| 3 |
6+ Trumps, extra values, singleton or void in spades |
| 3NT | Unused |
| 4 |
6+ Trumps, extra values, singleton or void in clubs |
| 4 |
6+ Trumps, extra values, singleton or void in diamonds |
| 4 |
6+ Trumps, minimum, balanced |
| 3 |
Any minimum (but see 4 |
| 3 |
5 Trumps, extra values, unbalanced |
| 3 |
6+ Trumps, extra values, balanced |
| 3NT | 5 Trumps, extra values, balanced (forcing) |
| 4 |
6+ Trumps, extra values, singleton or void in clubs |
| 4 |
6+ Trumps, extra values, singleton or void in diamonds |
| 4 |
6+ Trumps, extra values, singleton or void in hearts |
| 4 |
6+ Trumps, minimum, balanced |
The auction has gone:
| 1 |
2 |
or | 1 |
3 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3 |
3 |
| 1 |
2S | or | 1 |
3 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3 |
3 |
Here are a couple of suggestions:
| 1 |
1NT |
|---|---|
| 2 |
? |
Do Not Pass. Bid 2
or 3
(I prefer 2
). Game is still possible in spades
(partner has something like:
AQJTx
x
xxx
AKQx), clubs (slam is excellent
opposite:
Axxxx
x
Ax
AKxxx), or no trump (
Axxxx
Kx
xxx
AKQ). By bidding you will occasionally
take a minus when you would have made 2
but the potential game (or slam) bonus is
much more important (at IMP scoring anyway).
| 1 |
1NT |
|---|---|
| 2 |
? |
| Hand 1: | ||||
| Hand 2: | ||||
| Hand 3: |
I prefer to play that 2
shows either a hand like Hand 1 or a
hand like Hand 3 (that is either a weak raise with a lot of trumps or a hand
almost worth a 2/1). With a hand like Hand 2 you simply raise opener's minor
(this is called a courtesy raise). Over responder's 2
rebid, opener can return to his minor
with no game interest or bid 2NT to ask which hand type responder has. This
2NT bid will not effect who declares a possible no trump contract because
responder has already bid 1NT. After opener's 2NT inquiry, responder can go
back to 3 of the minor with Hand 1 or make some other descriptive bid with
Hand 3. When 1
is
the opening bid, things are more difficult. If opener bids 2
, you can use responder's 2
rebid as an
artificial force. There are many variations of this convention. The one that I
play is called BART. Unfortunately it is quite complex, but if interest
warrants I will discuss BART in a future article. Notice that BART (or one of
its variations) does give something up (the natural 2
bid) while the 2
bid discussed in the previous
paragraph is free (it does not replace a natural bid). If opener's suits are
spades and diamonds, bidding is extremely awkward. If somebody has a good
solution to this problem, I would be happy to hear it.
| 1 |
1NT |
|---|---|
| 2 |
2NT |
| ? |
There are 6 types of hands that opener might wish to describe:
The structure that I use lets opener show all of these hand types at a convenient level. After that, responder is usually in a good position to place the contract or at least to know what the best trump suit is (if any). In the above auction, this is how opener would continue:
3
- Artificial
force (types 2, 4, or 5 above). Responder must bid 3D and opener will clarify.
3
- Type 1
above. Responder would either PASS, take preference to spades, or raise
diamonds with a good fitting hand.
3
- Type 6 above. Responder can place the
contract in the appropriate game, bid 3
to show 2 card support, 4
to agree hearts, or
4
with a good
hand in support of diamonds.
3
- Type 3 above. Responder would usually
PASS, but might occasionally raise spades or go back to 4
.
If opener bids 3
(the artificial game force, types 2, 4,
or 5), responder must bid 3
. Opener would then bid:
3
- Type 2 (5-5 game
force)
3
-
Type 4 (6-4 game force)
This structure works in all sequences in which opener's second suit is not
clubs. If opener's second suit is clubs, the 3
bid is needed to show the weak 5-5. 3
is now used as the
artificial force. There are only 2 sequences:
| 1 |
1NT |
|---|---|
| 2 |
2NT |
| ? |
| 3 |
Type 1 (weak 5-5) |
| 3 |
Type 2 (strong 5-5), 3 (weak 6-4), or 4 (strong 6-4) |
| 3 |
Type 5 (strong 1534) |
| 3 |
Type 6 (strong 3514) |
| 1 |
1NT |
|---|---|
| 2 |
2NT |
| ? |
| 3 |
Type 1 (weak 5-5) |
| 3 |
Type 2 (strong 5-5) or 4 (strong 6-4) |
| 3 |
Type 3 (weak 6-4) or 5 (strong 5134) |
| 3 |
Type 6 (strong 5314) |
The last thing I would like to offer is a warning: Unless you are willing to really learn a system well with a regular partner, you are better off without it. Not knowing your system will get you poor results, ruin the game for your opponents, and create ethical problems that you really do not need. The more complex and artificial your methods, the greater the scope is for all of these types of problems.
I am not suggesting that everyone has to play methods as complex (and I believe effective) as those that I present. Having agreements with your partner is the important thing. They do not have to be the best possible agreements. In fact, I strongly believe that having simple agreements that your partnership knows well is far more effective than having complex agreements that your partnership is uncomfortable with.
If you believe that the methods I have described are too complex for you or your partnership, then I hope I have been able to show you some weak parts of how you play 2/1. If you do feel like you would like to adopt some or all of these methods, all I can tell you is that it is worth the effort. You will experience one of the most satisfying parts of bridge when the perfect hand for your methods actually comes up (as it will)