Rigs 1




The Hinge Rig is another pop-up rig. Made famous by Terry Hearn, the hinge rig is made from stiff monofilament (my personal favourite material for stiff rigs is ESP Stiff Rig Bristle Filament) A hinge is created by two interlocking loops on either piece of mono. A loop is also used to attach the swivel, but flexi-ring swivels perform the same task as the loop. A good knot for tying on swivels using stiff mono is the two-turn blood knot, it doesn't tend to mess us thick line like grinner and palomar knots can. This rig is normally fished with a boyant bait, so if you use one then remember to add a counter weight. As I have pointed out in the diagram, the counter-balance should be added to the bottom of the loop so that the hook always ends up pointing away from the swivel (as you can see in the diagram). Although you don't have to use a D-rig set up with this rig, I think it helps to let the bait move more freely when using stiff mono

The Hinge Rig

Snake Bite Rig Here's a rig which I use quite a lot and you can make with Kryston's Snake Bite. The stiff part of the rig makes sure the rig straightens out as it lands on the bottom and helps to avoid tangles. An inch to two inches of the snake bite before the hook has been stripped off, this lets the bait behave naturally in the water. If I decide to use a pop-up I put the counter-balance on the end of the stiff part just before the point where it is stripped off.

Snake Bite Rig

Critically Balanced Rig This is a rig I have used quite a lot in the past. When critically balancing your bait, the aim is to get it as light as possible so that is is only just being held down by the weight of the hook. The theory is that if a carp decides to taste your bait, it is sucked straight into the carp's mouth before any other bait, and hopefully the hook will then become caught in the carp's mouth. This is to try and trick the carp that are not necessarily attempting to eat the bait, but are just tasting it or sucking in your free offerings. Start with a piece of rig foam that is a bit too big and makes the bait float, then cut off small pieces until it only just sinks in the water. You don't have to use boilies, I have fished it with Pepperami which you'll find is very boyant and requires little foam. Fishing this rig over a bed of freebies, particles or with 'the method' can be effective because the carp might inadvertently suck in your bait whilst foraging for the particles.

Critically Balanced Rig

The Snowman Rig This rig is a variation of the ciritically balanced rig. You get two boilies, one which floats in water and one which sinks. By putting the sinking bait onto the hair below a floating bait, you should find that the pop-up sits at the top with the sinker holding it down. It is possible to achieve a situation whereby the net boyancy of both baits and the hook leaves the setup 'critically balanced' (see above). This can be achieved by changing the size ratio of the boilies, pushing short lengths of lead wire into the bottom bait to decrease boyancy (I think you can buy wire intended for this in tackle shops), or adding foam above the pop-up to increase boyancy. I like to use boilies of the same sort for this but I suppose there's no reason why different flavoured boilies couldn't be used in combination.

The Snowman Rig

Nail Rig


This is a pop-up rig made of Braid and a 'Depth Charge' weight, although a single shot would do the job.

'Hinged, Pop-up, Stiff rig'

Pop-Up Rig

The Helicopter rig. The Helicopter rig was originally used for sea fishing and later adapted for carp fishing because of its anti-tangle properties. The baited hook-link rotates about the main-line axis by the use of the loose fitting hook-link swivel, usually on anti-tangle tubing or lead-core. The Helicopter rig is best used with a two or three bait ‘Stringer’, a ‘Stringer’ is usually free offerings of your hook-bait that are threaded onto dissolvable P.V.A. string and tied to your hook



Amnesia D-rig


Here is the original rig that I used to use. At the time I was fishing the Valley waters a lot and the "helicopter"rig was the in thing for long range work.

The Lay-on Rig

This addition also protects the hooklink once the fish has hooked itself and is running with the bait. The longer the piece of tube the better the protection. Another definite advantage is the fact that both Korda flatliners and Korda swivel leads both come ready coated in a durable plastic finish. The gravelly brown version is absolutely spot on. It camouflages the lead against most gravel bottoms and gives it a cushioning effect prolonging the life of the lead.

Gravel Rigs

The reason for using this system is it holds the hooklink above the lead as the rig hits the lake bed. So the lead hits first and the hooklink comes to rest afterwards as it is lying above the lead. This reduces the risk of hooklink damage as much as possible. You can add a piece of 1 inch silicone to the hooklink swivel to gain extra protection as described with the Flatliner rig.

Roughorshallow Rig

Shocker Rig

This rig works so well for a couple of reasons:- It allows you to use a short hooklink at range in silt knowing it is perfectly presented at the top of the silt. Short hooklinks in my opinion give the carp less chance of rejecting the bait before the fixed lead comes into play. It also means you can use stiff hooklinks as well if you want to. Don't be afraid to use 3-5 inch hooklinks, believe me they will get the bait in their mouth!!



Bait Bag