The history and an overview of the

MASTERPIECE COLLECTION

(les Mécaniques)

1. History of the brand Maurice Lacroix and the Masterpiece Collection

2. The Masterpiece Table

3. A brief description of the Masterpiece Models

4. Reference

     5.   Updates to this page

Updates to this page:

July 2010: Textually updated the whole site, updated the    ** CURRENT MODELS ** in the tabel to the situation in 2010.

Juli 2010: Applied new font  (Futura) for this page

Juli 2010. Added new Masterpiece, and corrected  a faulty described  Masterpiece and movement (Thank you Donghyun Kim from South Korea)

December 2009: Added banner from sponsor KingWatch.nl

 

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1. History of the brand Maurice Lacroix and the Masterpiece Collection

In a relatively short period of time, the Masterpiece collection of Maurice Lacroix (ML) has build up a very good reputation among watch-enthusiasts and -collectors. 

It is mainly thanks to the Masterpiece collection that ML is now a household name, and ML is also one of few brands that can produce both 
quartz and mechanical watches without this latter interfering the reputation of the brand. All this was done in a very short period of time..... 
The name Maurice Lacroix was first used in  1975. The name Maurice Lacroix is a fantasy name, although there has been a worker at Desco with that name.

ML is a daughter of the Desco von Schulthess of Zurich. Founded in 1889, Desco von Schulthess (Desco) is an older company that has got roots in the silk trade.
Since 1946 Desco was also an representative  for luxury watches in the far east and in Australia. They represented names like Audemars Piguet, Heuer, Eterna, and Jeager-le-Coultre. Over the years Desco got more and more interested in the lucrative watch business, and in 1961 Desco acquired an assembly facility named Tiara
in Saignelégier, in the Swiss Canton of Jura. There it produced private label watches for third parties. Many, many watches went from this facility all over the world
with a variety of fantasy names on the dials. In 1975 Desco started marketing watches under the brand name Maurice Lacroix, first in Austria. In 1976 followed by Spain,
in 1978 Italy, in 1980 Singapore and Hong Kong. It was not until 1983 that a Maurice Lacroix watch could be bought in the Swiss home country. 
Only in 1995 ML entered the US market.

By 1980 the name Maurice Lacroix was already so strong (in numbers manufactured) that the facility in Saignelégier stopped production for third parties, 
and concentrated solely on the name ML. In 1989 ML made a very important move in acquiring the case maker Queloz S.A., also based in Saignelégier. And
ML produced the first "Masterpiece" watches in 1994. First these watches were marketed under the name "Les Mécaniques". later on the name "Les Mécaniques" 
and "Masterpiece" were used at the same for the same watches side by side. That was very confusing.

Retired as Product Head in 2004,   René Baumann  (pictured on the left), is the inventor of the Masterpiece concept. He is the reason that ML is not yet 
another "boutique brand". The Product Head is responsible for the so typical ML styling, and  was always on the lookout for stocking whole series 
of old calibers. René was a man with very clear points of view and was a man without compromise.

"All the money we spend on a watch goes in acquiring components of highest quality-levels. The tolerances of the calibers that we use ,
especially after we modified and refined them, are so close, that we don't need an expansive Chronometer Certificate. We would have to increase the price
of that same watch with a few hundred Euro's. Besides...the COSC test the calibers as un-assembled pieces. After the tested caliber has been housed 
(placed in a case) a chronometer again has to be regulated. More so...in the length of time the accuracy of a watch changes, Chronometer or no Chronometer. 
And then we don't even talk about how the owner of the watch uses it..."

For the same reason (cost effectniss), ML rejects the use of a perpetual calendar. again René Baumann:    " Perpetual Calendars are way too expensive to produce,
besides most other companies have one in their collection. We rather save that money for less expensive quality details. To name a few: Highly decorated calibers
with a perfect finish, we only use the best available components and materials. Also the dials are very important, the ML dials are of the best quality with a lot of 
details. Then there are the cases, we make them in-house, and they are very recognizable. Also, ML was one of the first brands that used transparent back, 
so the movement can be seen...."

Like said, ML owns old historic watch movements that were only produced for a short period of time and in small series. ML started to buy them in 1983 and 1984. 
René Baumann says: "It takes a lot of effort to refine them and make them work again up to modern standards. Sometimes small parts are missing, and they must be 
re-created. To mention one example: The Masterpiece Chronograph Classique with the legendary 13 lines caliber 23 by Valjoux was introduced in 1916. We got hand to a
serie of 220 pieces. Only 125.000 raw movements of this caliber of excellent quality were ever produced until it's production stop in 1974. This movement was used by 
almost all the renowned watch manufacturers for their chronographs. The ML Masterpiece with the Valjoux 23 also includes movements of this serie equipped with 
the first shock protection system. The chronograph functions (start, stop, reset) are controlled with a pivited ratchet wheel (also called column wheel). 
Aficionados recognize the high quality Valjoux calibers not only because of the typical appearance of the various levers, yokes, springs and wheels, but also because of the ratchet wheel itself. It has a total of 9 columns, that is more than comparable products by competitors."

Demand for the "older" ML Masterpieces watches is growing. For example a Venus 188 movement was used in an early limited Masterpiece serie in 1994 
(later ML again re-issued a limited series with the Venus 188 movement). The watch was not appreciated and it was not considered exiting. 
Recently this watch was sold at an auction for three times it's initial price (10.000 Deutsch Mark in 1994). This indicates that ML is gaining respect and interest from serious collectors worldwide. Slowly this young firm is beginning to create their own history. And especially the limited editions are to be considered as "Tomorrow Classics".
After over 30 very successful years, this dedicated watch creator has decided to pass on his important responsibilities to his successors.

I was very saddned by the news that on the last day of the year 2009    René Baumann passed away.

Patrick Graells

In the year 2004 Patrick Graells (pictured left) took over product development for the mechanical watches in the Masterpiece Collection.
He had the opportunity to work together with René Baumann intensively in order to settle into the new area of responsibility.

"Mechanical watches and their highly complex movements provide us with the unique opportunity to create connections among 
complicated mechanics, functions whose variety surprises me time and again and an aesthetic refined down to the tiniest detail," explained Patrick Graells. 

"It is my objective to continue to create fascinating timepieces with attractive complications. The various models in the Masterpiece Collection should continue to be watches of today which are, however, so compelling in their mechanical and aesthetic perfection that their wearers are still enthusiastic about them decades later." 

Roland Berger 

Roland Berger is watchmaker and Technical Development Manager at Maurice Lacroix. He can use all his skills for the Mastrepiece series. 
If you have a Limited Edition Masterpiece, you should have a Certificate by ML with the signature of Roland Berger.

In a ML issued press document he states:

"My work ranges from the search for ideas regarding unusual additional functions, the selection of suitable movements, 
the technical development of the complications, production of a first prototype, control of the functions, and possible improvement of the watch precision to the decision of which decorations will adorn a movement. The Masterpiece Collection naturally is by no means the work of a single 
person, it is supported by a motivated and experienced team that is used to working together."

Becoming an Manufacture

In october 2006 Maurice Lacroix let the world know that they took a last step in it's goal to become a     Manufacture brand:

Press Release:

25-10-06

In the watch industry, a company that produces a large part of the most important components of a mechanical watch in its own workshops is considered a Manufacture.

After Maurice Lacroix presented in April 2006, during Baselworld, its in-house chronograph, the caliber ML 106 (housed inside the Masterpiece Le Chronographe) , the brand has now taken its place in the exclusive club of Swiss Manufacture brands with its own production of components for mechanical watch movements.

Since the beginning of October, a workshop for the manufacture of highly complex watch movement components has been set up under the name La Manufacture des Franches-Montagnes SA in Montfaucon, very close to the Maurice Lacroix watch atelier at Saignelégier.

Maurice Lacroix will continue to nurture its co-operation with external suppliers, but the in-house manufacture makes it possible for the brand to act independently in times of greater demand. and to control better the production process of complex mechanical watches.

Now this is what I call good news. ML is doing what they told the community since a few years. They pursuit their goal one step at a time, and well within a tight time-line. This is a very strategic step that ML has made.

L'Atelier de Maurice Lacroix 

The fact that ML is concentrating more and more on them being a manufacture has a very unpleasant side-effect for a wide range of watch- aficionado's. 
The new manufacture models became out of many's finacials league (including mine)

Very strange is the fact that ML has created a seperate name for some Manufacture models. The spectactular Memoire-1 watch (shown for the first time to public during Baselworld 2007, and introduced officially in 2008) was marketed under the new product range L'Atelier de Maurice Lacroix. Since this is a page about the Masterpieces,
I will not describe these models any further here. Other Manufacture models are still marketed as Masterpieces.

2. The Masterpiece Table

Below is a table I composed based on research I did on the ML Masterpieces. I got my information from various sources. Mainly from old German Uhren Magazins. 
ML places many adverts in this magazine, especially in the beginning years of the magazine's existence and in return the magazine seems to give more than average editorial attention to the watches that ML put on the market over the years. Other sources came from brochures and catalogues from ML itself. I know this table is not complete, and can contain faults. I also got valuable ionformation from watch-aficionado from all over the world. Thank all who contributed.......If you've got information to make the table more complete or more accurate, please do not hesitate  to mail me. It would be great to make this table as complete as possible for the ever growing population of ML Masterpiece lovers out there.....

See also at the bottom of the table for some ML watches that I came across that are unknown to me. Perhaps you know the information about these watches.

Masterpieces in current production are labeled as   (** CURRENT MODEL **)

Masterpieces with a limited production run are labeled as   (** LIMITED EDITION **)  ,Otherwise a Masterpiece is numbered, but not limited.

Maurice Lacroix every now and then comes up with a limited edition watch that houses a movement that is no longer produced. Mostly the movement used in this watches are very much appreciated by collectors. ML completely re-finishes these movements. The result is a fantastic movement completely living up to the high quality standards of the Masterpiece series. You can see these watches as Heritage, or tribute watches. In honor to mechanical watchmaking of old-times. These watches are labeled as ( ** HERITAGE MOVEMENT **)

The models ith a Manufacture movement are labeled   (** MANUFACTURE **)

Some Masterpieces are in my collection. They are labeled   (** IN MY COLLECTION **)

But I would like to add some more to my humble collection. These are labeled as    (** ON MY WISHLIST **)

The models of the Masterpieces are sorted by the numbers of the calibers used. I found this the easiest way to quickly look up the different model

3. A brief description of the Masterpiece Models

ML05: Masterpiece Flyback Grand Guichet

This watch is fitted with the  ML05 movement. Based on the automatic ETA 2892-A2 caliber. This watch features 
a Big Date and a Flyback function on the chronograph. The chronograph totalises with a 30 minutes, and a 12 hours sub-dial.

Some technical information about the movement: 28.800 A/h (4Hz), 49 jewels, Incabloc shockprotection, Glucydur balance wheel, Nivarox1 balance spring, Nivaflex main spring.

Small seconds at 3, case and crown high grade stainless steel, sapphire front and back, dial 925 Sterling Silver. Waterresistance 50 meter.

reference number of the watch pictured: 05.826-1101, Stainless Steel. Price in Germany in the year 2000: DM 5450. (EURO 2786)

Later this watch was succeeded by the ML15 based Masterpiece Flyback Annuaire..

 
Back to the Masterpiece Table

  ML06: Masterpiece Réveil Globe
 

The Réveil Globe features a mechanical alarm. The  ML06 movement is based on the AS 5008 caliber. This movement winds both the alarm plus the movement (two barrels) automatically.

Blued steel screws, Incabloc shock protection, polished steel pallet and escapement wheel, Glucydur balance, Nivarox-1 balance spring, Nivaflex-1 main spring.

Functions: Alarm, Date, 3 Time Zones. The second time zone shown in the window at 6. This second time zone is adjusted with
the crown at 2. The third time zone can be shown via the rotating bezel. This bezel can be adjusted with the crown at 9.

The model shown is reference number MP6388-SS001-330. Price in the Netherlands in 2004 was EURO 3965.

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML 07: Masterpiece Jour et Nuit

The Jour et Nuit (day and night) was the third ML Masterpiece in my collection. I fell for the wonderful crafted (sterling silver) dial, and the simplicity and elegance appearance the watch. This watch features a special method of showing the time. The minute hand is just like any other minute hand (Well, any ML hand 
is beautifully crafted and this one is in Breguet style, and blued) But the hour hand is a one of it's kind hand. 
The hour hand wanders around in half-speed, so a whole turn takes 24 hours instead of the normal 12 hours. 
On the top half of the dial you can see a bow with numbers reching from the 6, via 9, 12, and 3 to 6. 
These are the hours. Now when the sun-tipped end of the hour hand passes these numbers, it is daylight (indicating 06:00 till 18:00) When the moon-tipped end of the hour end passes these numbers, it is night time (18:00 -06:00) You get uses to it very quick.

The movement of the Jour et Nuit is the   ML07, based on the Unitas 6498-1 pocket watch calibre. This is a handwound watch, the movement is a beauty to behold. 17 jewels, with an easy going 18.000 A/h. 
Blued steel screws, Incabloc shockprotection, polished steel pallet and escapement wheel, Triovis precision adjustment, Glucydur coiled balance wheel, Nivarox-1 balance spring, Nivaflex-1 main spring.

         
Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML15: Masterpiece Flyback Annuaire

The Flyback Annuaire features a one year calendar (in this case shows the (BIG) date and Month). Plus a Flyback function on the chronograph. This watch is the successor of the Masterpiece Flyback Grand Guichet which lacked the one year calendar with month indication.

The movement is now called  ML15. Finish and quality of the movement is the same as the ML05. But the combination of chronograph with Flyback function, large date and one year calendar makes this movement one of the most complicated 
within the Masterpiece Collection.

This watch was honoured with the reader's price 2000 of the Swiss magazin Montres Passion/Uhren Welt.

Shown on the picture is bi-color version. The Stainless Steel version was EURO 4550 in 2004 in the Netherlands

There were two special  versions of this watch The Masterpiece Flyback Annuaire Indy 500. One in a (** LIMITED EDITION **) 500 pieces Steel version, and a  (** LIMITED EDITION **) in 200 pieces rose gold. Both watches were marketed and sold in n 2001.

In 2006 ML introduced another version of the highly complicated Flyback Annuaire watch, the   Masterpiece Flyback Aviator Chronograph. Same complications, but in a different case and dial configuration.

 

 
Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML16: Masterpiece Skeleton

Less is more: This can be said about the Masterpiece Skeleton. The people at Maurice Lacroix did a beautiful thing to the Unitas 6497-1 pocket watch movement. They renamed the movement to  ML16. The handwound movement (what else for a skeleton watch) has 17 jewels, Incabloc shock protection, polished steel lever, Glucydur coiled balance wheel, Nivarox-1 balance spring, Nivaflex-1 main spring. This watch was last seen in the 2003 catalog. Reference number was MP6258-SS001-000, and the price in the Netherlands in 2003 was EURO 2550. Strangely enough, this watch was not mentioned in the 2004/2005 Masterpiece catalogue, but re-appeared in the 2005/2006 catalog.

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML19: Les Mécaniques Regulateur Automatique

The ML19 is based on the Unitas 6380. The reference number is 19.275-5301. 20 micron yellow or red gold plated. In some documents I read that this watch was limited to 1000 pieces, but this advertising of October 1991 does not mention a limited production run. The price in Germany in 1991 was DM 1995 (EURO 1020)

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML20: Masterpiece Réveil Automatique

This watch is basically the same as "Les Mécaniques Réveil Automatique" but I think the detail are even prettier on this one. The AS5008 based movement has been renamed to  ML20. Very nice is the mother of pearl dial, 
and the engraving on the gold bezel. This kind of bezel is typical for early Masterpieces.

Reference number for this watch is 20.584-1602. The price in Germany in 1996 was DM 4750 (EURO 2428), and in 1998 DM 4995 (EURO 2554). This watch featured in a test in the September 1995 Uhren Magazin.

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML22: Masterpiece AS5008

There was a watch on the market named Masterpiece AS5008. That was in the early 90's. First the watch was gold plated, and later it came also in Stainless Steel.

The gold-plated version had reference number 22.197

Two limited versions were also released; a  (** LIMITED EDITION **)  999 pieces Pink Gold and a  (** LIMITED EDITION **) 125 pieces Platinum. ML renamed the AS5008 movements used in these watches the  ML22, see pictured on the left. The rotor has been lifted to give the movement a full view.

(** LIMITED EDITION **) 125 pieces Platinum. The price of the Platinum model in 1991 in Germany was DM 15000 (EURO 7670)

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML27: Les Mécaniques Cinq Aguilles

The Cinq Aguilles (five hands) is one of the types that have been around ever since the beginning of the series Les Mécaniques, and continued in the Masterpiece series up till today. The concept of the watch with five hands is a complication that Maurice Lacroix developed. The earliest watch with this concept is Les Mécaniques Cinq Aguilles. Introduced in 1990, it was one the first in the series. In fact the cinq aguilles was the very first to be equiped with an complication developped especially for the Masterpiece collection

The Cinq Aguilles shows all functions from the center. The functions are: Time (Hour, Minutes), Seconds, Weekday, and Date. 
The ML27 is used in all the versions over the years.

The ML27 is based on the ETA 2836-2. The watch shown here at the right is reference number 27.294-4402. With 20micron Red or Yellow Gold plated case. The price in 1992 in Germany was DM 1495 (EURO 764). Notice the lovely mother of pearl colors on the dial.

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML27: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Cinq Aguilles

A Transitional model  of the Cinq Aguilles was the watch that was both marketed with the names Les Mécaniques 
PLUS the name Masterpiece. The 18K Gold bezel on this one, reference 27.561 had engravings and also a 
mother of pearl dial. The price of this model was in 1994 in Germany DM 2750 (EURO 1406). 
The movement is   ML27.

Even in the year 1998 this watch, now with a slightly different shape and also different reference number 27.667-1605 was marketed under the two names Les Mécaniques PLUS the name Masterpiece. The watch on the right was still DM 2750 (EURO 1406) in 1998 in Germany. (DM 2350 or EURO1201 in Stainless Steel)

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML27: Masterpiece Cinq Aguilles

This model is still in the catalogue and can be had in many different styles. The    ML27 (based on the ETA 2836-2) has 25 jewels, blued steel screws, Incabloc shockprotection, polished steel pallet and escapement wheel, Glucydur balance, Nivarox-1 balance spring, Nivaflex-1 main spring. The dial is made of 925 Sterling Silver.

This watch was rewarded 1st place in the "Watch of the year 2002" award of the Portuguese magazine Relogios et Joias.

Shown is reference number MP6328-SS001-39E with a list price in the Netherlands
in 2005 of EURO 1925.

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML27: Masterpiece Cinq Aguilles Japan only

This reference MP6327-SS001-41E was a Japan only  (** LIMITED EDITION **)) of 299 pieces in Stainless Steel. I recently saw one for sale for YEN 336.000 (EURO 2503). Movement: ML27.

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML28: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Heures Sautante

This is another watch from the period in which ML used both names (Les Mécaniques and Masterpiece) to market a watch. 
This so called Jumping Hour watch. I have no other information for this watch except for the information given on this ad in the German Uhren Magazin from march 1994. Reference number is 28.505, indicating that a   ML28 caliber is used, based on the ETA/Peseux 7046. A handwind movement. This was a numbered, but not limited model. The bezel is 18K Gold.
The price in Germany in 1994 was DM 2600 (EURO 1329)

A Jumping Hour watch does not have an hour hand, but a window with a digital display.
Each hour the figure in this window "jumps" ahead with one hour

 
Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML28: Masterpiece Heures Sautante

The Peseux 7046 also went through a rigorous upgrade by the people of ML. The    ML28 is a small, basic movement, 
but beautiful to look at. The model shown on the left is the Masterpiece Heures Sautante, reference 28.762-1101. Stainless Steel. 
The price in Germany in 1999 was DM 2500 (EURO 1278)

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML29: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece 2ème Temps Date

The ML29 inside this watch is based on the automatic ETA 2836-2. This watch shows home-time with normal hands,
plus it features an extra window at 12. This digital displayed hour window can be set as second time zone, and "jumps" every hour. 
The date is located at 6.

reference shown is 29.400-1616 a two-tone (18K Gold/Steel) case. Price in Germany in 1995 was DM 2700 (EURO1380)

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML29: Les Mécaniques Heures Sautante Jour/Nuit

Also with ML29 is this watch that has an extra feature. Apart from home-time, a jumping second time zone at 12, 
and a date at 6, this watch has a aperture just under the 12, indicating the Day and Night.

Reference is 29.399. The price in Germany in 1992 was DM 1895 (EURO 969) The case is 20 micron gold plated.

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML30: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Chronograph Reserve de Marche (** LIMITED EDITION **)

Looking at the dial lay-out it is hard to imagine that the base movement for the    ML30 that is in this watch, is a Valjoux 7750. 
This very reliable, but also very common movement is modified beyond recognition.

The subdial at 9 is the small seconds, the dial at 12 is a 30-minutes counter for the chronograph. The dial at 3 shows the date, 
and the 12-hours counter at 6 was eliminated and replaced by a power reserve indicator.

This is a (** LIMITED EDITION **) 999 pieces Limited Edition in two-tone (18K Gold/Steel) The price in Germany in 1994 was DM 4750 (EURO 2428). reference number is 30.585-1602.

There was also another release in 1999 of this watch. It's reference number was 30.586. It's a  (** LIMITED EDITION **)  of 999 pieces in steel. The price in Germany in 1999 was DM 4295 (EURO 2196)

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML35: Masterpiece FHF 29 Limited

The FHF29 formcaliber is the bases for the Masterpiece FHF29 Limited Edition series. The "Fabrique d'Horlogerie Fontainemelon" produced these calibers from the 1930's. No extra features were added. Maurice Lacroix sometimes helped back alive some old and no longer produced movements. ML completely reassembles these mechanical gems, 
giving these the same high quality finish as all the other movements in the Masterpiece series. ML renamed the FHF29 to ML35. These watches are a heritage to mechanical watchmaking in the "old" days.

The Masterpiece FHF29 came in three versions:

Reference 35.816: Steel version (** LIMITED EDITION **) 440 pieces. Price in Germany in 1999 DM 4990 (EURO 2550)

Reference 35.817: Two-tone (18K/Steel) (** LIMITED EDITION **) 260 pieces. Price in Germany in 1999 DM 5500 (EURO 2812)

Reference 35.830: Pink Gold version (** LIMITED EDITION **) 100 pieces. Price in Germany in 1999 DM 8950 (EURO 4567)

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML36: Masterpiece Vénus

This is a 2004 addition to the series of watches ML produces in limited numbers with old watch movements that are no longer produced. The handwound Venus 175 caliber is a beautiful column-wheel chronograph. The movement is hand decorated. 23 Jewels, blued steel screws, two 18K gold chatons, swan neck regulator, Incabloc shockprotection, polished steel pallet and escapement wheel , Glucydur coiled balance wheel, Nivarox-1 balance spring, Nivaflex-1 main spring. After all the work at the movement the Venus 175 is renamed as ML36. (see picture below)

The chronograph has got a 30-minute counter, and there are small seconds at 9. At 43,5mm this is a rather large watch. Two models:

Reference MP7038-PG101-120, (** LIMITED EDITION **) 150 pieces in Pink Gold. Price in the Netherlands in 2004 was EURO 15900 (picture left)

Reference MP 7038-WG101-120, (** LIMITED EDITION **) 100 pieces in White Gold. Price in the Netherlands in 2004 was EURO 16600 (picture right)

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML37: Masterpiece Phase de Lune

The Phase de Lune is a long time member of the Masterpiece series. There was also a Les Mécaniques version in 1992 with reference number 13.111.Reference number in 1999 was 37.757-1602 for the two-tone model. The price in Germany in 1999 was DM 3450 (EURO 1763). In 2005 the price for the same watch has risen to EURO 2550, and the reference number changed to MP6437-YS101-19E.

The ML37 is an hand-decorated automatic movement based on the ETA 2824-2, plus a DD calendar module. 25 jewels, blued steel screws, Incabloc shockprotection, polished steel pallet and escapement wheel, Glucydur balance, Nivarox-1 balance spring, Nivaflex-1 main spring. The watch features a full calendar (day, date, month, plus the moonphase)

In 2007 ML introduced an updated version of the Masterpiece Phase de Lune. Like most 2007 updates, the Phase de Lune also got a more 3-D effect.

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML37: Masterpiece Phase de Lune Tonneau

Technical the same as the Phase de Lune, but in a tonneau shaped case is the reference number MP6439-SS001-31E. The price in the Netherlands in 2005 is EURO 3450. The movement is the same as in the other Phase de Lunes,    ML37.

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ML37: Masterpiece Phase de Lune Dame

Technical the same as the Phase de Lune, but in a "Bling-Bling" version for the ladies is the reference number MP6066-SD501-17E complete with 50 Top Wesselton VS Diamonds (0,835 Carat) in brilliant cut. The crown is with a sapphire cabochon. And a mother of pearl dial.
Price in the Netherlands in 2005 is  euro 4490. Movement is the   ML37.

 

 Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML38: Masterpiece Peseux Open Heart

In 2006 ML introduced the Masterpiece Peseux Open Heart in a   (** LIMITED EDITION **) in the U.S. a total of 500 watches were produced. The first 100 in Gold, 
and the remaining 400 pieces in steel. The reference number of this watch is MP7108. The watch features the Peseux 7001 movement , renamed as      ML38

The Masterpiece Peseux Open Heart gives a nice view to the balance wheel.   

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ML43: Masterpiece Tonneau Dame Limited

Introduced in 2006, the Masterpiece Tonneau Dame Limited Edition is the 3rd Jewellery watch in the Masterpiece serie designed for women. The other two are the      Masterpiece Phase Lune Dame and the Masterpiece Grand Guichet Dame.

TheLimited Toneau dame comes only in the small Tonneau case.  And is available in 2 diamond versions (small version 108 diamonds Top Wesselton, 0.53 carats or 231 diamonds Top Wesselton, 1.33 carats)

The (** LIMITED EDITION **)  of 500 pieces in Pink comes with a handwound historical movement (I yet don't know what movement it is), renamed as ML43. The movement is hand-decorated mechanical, hand-wound ML 43 movement, 17 jewels, blued steel screws, Incabloc shock protection, polished steel pallet and escapement wheel, Glucydur balance, Nivarox-1 balance spring, Nivaflex-1 main spring.

This watch was introduced at the same time as the non-limited Masterpiece Tonneau Dame

Back to the Masterpiece Table

ML44: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Full Calendar GMT

I´ve seen two versions of this watch. Reference 44.410 (picture left) and 44.367(picture right). Looking at the complications, it seems to met that an ETA 2892 movement 
was used and that ML added a complication on top of it.

ML45: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Réveil Automatique Date

Before the name Masterpiece was used for this collection Maurice Lacroix used the name Les Mécaniques 
to indicate their flagship product range. That was in the early years (after 1990). A few years later they started 
to use the names "les Mécaniques" and "Masterpiece" side by side. That was  very confusing and not very clever. 
Now only the name Masterpiece is used. This watch, the  Mécaniques Réveil Automatique uses the automatic AS5008 , renamed ML45, alarm movement as a base. The watch held reference number 45.393-7401 is a   (** LIMITED EDITION **)  of 999 pieces in red gold. 
In 1992 the price in Germany was DM 9500 (EURO 4857).  

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ML46: Masterpiece Chronographe Valjoux 7736

Maurice Lacroix bought many older movements in the past, and very now and then they release a serie in limited numbers equipped with these movements. 
Always these movements are finished to perfection, and this Chronographe Valjoux 7736 is no exception. The movement was renamed to    ML46.

Reference number for the two-tone model on the left is 46.501 a   (** LIMITED EDITION **)  of 700 pieces. The price in 1997 in Germany was DM 4500 (EURO 2300)

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ML50: Les Mécaniques Réserve de Marche

The Unitas 6376 has been transformed into the  ML50 for this lovely Handwound watch. There were three versions of this watch, all of them in limited numbers.

(** LIMITED EDITION **) 400 pieces steel edition. Reference 50.728-1101. The price in Germany in 1997 was DM 2995 (EURO 1531)

(** LIMITED EDITION **) 600 pieces Steel/Gold edition. Reference 50.729-1601. The price in Germany in 1997 was DM 3400 (EURO 1738)

(** LIMITED EDITION **) 350 pieces Gold edition. Reference 50.730-7101. The price in Germany in 1997 was DM 6900 (EURO 3527)

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ML51: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Reserve de Marche Automatique

In the German Uhren Magazin of july 1996 was this ML advertising. This watch looks a lot like the Les Mecaniques Reserve de Marche automatic. This watch has got an additional day and month window. The date is shown via a pointer. At 12 is a sub-dial with a 24-hour indication, which can also be set for a second time zone.

Reference of this watch is 51.670-1601, in Gold and Steel. Movement is the   ML51, based on the ETA 2892-2. Years later, in 2005, the same movement was used for a limited edition Masterpiece.

This was a (** LIMITED EDITION **) of 999 pieces in yellow gold/steel..

The 24-hours indicator can be used as a second time zone.

The price in Germany in 1996 was DM 4995 (EURO2553)

This watch was also available as Les Mécaniques, reference number 51.411. in bi-color. (pictured below). This watch was numbered, but not limited.

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ML51: Masterpiece les Calendriers

Released in July 2005, the Masterpiece les Calendriers is made only (** LIMITED EDITION **) 450 times in steel. The base is the automatic ETA 2892-2. The watch features a power reserve indication, a day/night indicator, plus a full calendar. With all the modifications and the typical ML finish, the movement has been renamed ML51.

Also, a Pink Gold version of this watch was released. Reference number is MP6168 PG101-110. This is a    (** LIMITED EDITION **) Of only 100 pieces.

Both Les Calendriers were marketed for the Asian market only.

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ML53: Masterpiece Régulateur

Like the ML50, and the ML56, the  ML53 which houses the Régulateur is based on the Unitas 6376. A regulator watch has a special method of showing the time.
All three hands show the hours, the minute and the seconds individually.

The Régulateur was a (** LIMITED EDITION **) of 999 pieces in steel with 
20 micron gold plate, reference number is 53.401

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ML54: Masterpiece Automatique

Not sure why ML added this watch to the Masterpiece series.  Perhaps as an alternative to the wonderful masterpiece Peseux 7046. The latter is a handwind, and I think ML put this watch next to it with the same appearance for people who prefer an automatic watch. Both watches have the date placed at the unusual place between 1 and 2.

In my opinion, this is by far the least appealing Masterpiece.

The ML54 movement is based on the ETA2824-2, finished with all the goodies that the Masterpiece serie is known for, including (for the Masterpieces after 2003) a skeletonised rotor. This is my least favorite Masterpiece to date.

Reference number for the watch on the right is MP6158-SS001-120. The price in the Netherlands in 2005 is EURO1250.

 
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ML56: Masterpiece Cadran Emaille

One of my favorite Masterpieces is this Cadran Emaille. A simple but very elegant watch with a beautiful real enamel dial. The base is the handwound  Unitas 6376 movement, the same movement that was the base for the ML50 and ML53. In this watch, the movement has no extra added functions, and is renamed     ML56. The watch came in two different versions, both limited. Reference 56.785 is a  (** LIMITED EDITION **)  400 pieces steel version. The other, reference 56.786 is a   (** LIMITED EDITION **) 100 pieces pink gold version. Their prices in 1999 in Germany were DM 3450 (EURO 1763) for the steel version, and DM 7450 (EURO 3809) for the gold version.

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ML57 : Les Mécaniques Automatique

This is a numbered, but not limited watch, with a movement based on the ETA 2000 inside. Renamed as    ML57. A nice tank model. Reference number is 57.620, and the price in Germany in 1996 was DM 2495 (EURO1275)

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ML57: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Automatique

Technically the same as the Mécaniques Automatique, but released a year later, 
with the addition of the name Masterpiece, came this  (** LIMITED EDITION **)  499 pieces yellow gold edition. Reference number is 57.664, 
and the price in Germany in 1997 was DM 4995 (EURO 2553). Movement is the    ML57.

 
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ML58: Masterpiece Grand Guichet

The ETA 2892-2 forms the base for the  ML58. It is 26 jeweled automatic movement with blued steel screws, Incabloc shock protection, polished steel pallet and escapement wheel. Glucydur balance, Nivarox-1 balance spring, Nivaflex-1 mainspring. It features a Big Date indicator with two independently rotating disks,and is equiped with an anti-return device, ensuring safe synchronisation of the two discs.It also features a small seconds at 6.

This watch was rewarded 3rd place as "Watch of the year 2000" of the German magazine Armbanduhren.

In 2005 the price in the Netherlands is EURO 2480 for the steel version. Reference number MP6378-SS001-290.

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ML61: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Chronograph Rattrapante

The base movement for this watch is the very common Valjoux 7750. But ML transformed this movement into a lovely Rattrapante ML61. This complication is named Split Seconds in English, and Doppelchrono in German.

A Rattrapante is a way of measuring elapsed time with the possibility to measure split time. A Rattrapante watch has got two moving chronograph second hands. When the chrono pusher is pushed for the first time, both second hands starts to move simultaneously. A second push stops one hand while the second hand is advancing normally. With the third push the first hand catches up with the second hand again.

Reference number for this watch is 61.549, and this watch was a  (** LIMITED EDITION **)  watch  to 999 pieces in bi-color (18K/steel)

Reference number 61.570 was a (** LIMITED EDITION **) watch  to 999 pieces in Steel.

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ML63: Les Mécaniques Réveil

The AS1931 movement was only produced for a very short period (1970-1974) This handwound movement is therefore very rare. Some sources indicate that this movement was only produced in a very limited serie by ML. But looking at this advertisement from 1994 it says that the watch is individually numbered, but no mention is being made for a limited production run.

Once again ML did a fantastic job on the movement, and rename the AS 1931 to   ML63.

Reference number is 63.511-1601 and the price in Germany in 1994 was DM 2995 (EURO 1531) the case is in bi-color (18K/steel)

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ML63: Masterpiece Réveil Limited Edition

In 2006 I saw this ML63, AS1931 based watch for sale. It's a   (** LIMITED EDITION **)  of 500 pieces in steel. Reference number is MP7118.SS001.110 , The MSRP is unknown to me, but it was for sale new in box for $2800,00.
A two-tone (** LIMITED EDITION **) of 200 pieces in pink gold and steel, plus a (** LIMITED EDITION **) pink gold edition of 150 pieces was also available.

   
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ML66: Les Mécaniques Chronograph

This Chronograph is based on the Valjoux 7751. Reference number is 66.412-1601. A two-tone case in Gold/Steel. The price in Germany in 1992 was DM 3900 (EURO 1994).
I have no further information about this watch. Movement is the   ML66.

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ML67: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Croneo

The Croneo has been in the ML Les Mécaniques/ Masterpiece collection from the start. The base for the Croneo is the Valjoux 7750. ML put the date function at 6, and added an extra jewel, probably because of this somewhat different date mechanism. The Croneo is not very special, but is nicely finished and of good quality. There are many different styles. Shown on the right is an older model, reference 67.668-1615 from 1996. The price in Germany for this 18K/steel bi-color model was DM 2995 (EURO 1531). The movement was renamed  ML67.

The price in the Netherlands in 2005 for a stainless steel Croneo is EURO 2210. (reference number MP6318-SS001-32E)

Ref. 67.587-11 shown below is a  (** LIMITED EDITION **) of 999 pieces in steel. It features a Tachymetre bezel, and a Mother of Pearl dial.

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ML67: Masterpiece Croneo COSC Roger Federer Special Edition

A special edition of the Croneo is this Chronometer certified model. I guess it's good quality, but not at all special IMHO. 
The everyday Valjoux 7750 has been used in this movement which is strangely also named    ML67, like the non-COSC other Croneo models.

This is one of my least popular Masterpieces. I hate the fact that ML is moving towards  Celebrity Marketing. OK, Roger Federer may be a good tennis player, but why O why link this man to the lovely Masterpiece series???  Just because Omega is doing the same? 
Or Audemars Piguet, or Rolex, or Longines, or ....... Don't be silly Maurice Lacroix, we love your watches just for what they are, 
good quality, fantastic cases, even more fantastic dials, and movements finished near to perfection......

PLEASE, PLEASE MAURICE LACROIX, STOP THIS KIND OF MARKETING !!!!!!

My prayers were heard...... In june 2006 the following news come out:

"Roger Federer Dumps Maurice Lacroix for Rolex

Tennis player Roger Federer has signed a multi-year endorsement deal with Rolex.

Federer previously endorsed Rolex before signing with Maurice Lacroix in 2004. He paid a termination fee to Maurice Lacroix to end his deal with the                                    company which was two years into his five year contract."                                                                      

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ML67: Masterchrono

In 2007 ML introduced yet another watch based on the Valjoux 7750 based ML67. It´s a good looking sports watch, with 100 meter waterresistance. They called it the Masterchrono. Note the nice display of the small seconds @9.

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ML70: Masterpiece Chronograph Classic Valjoux 72C

The Valjoux 72c features a calendar that most chronographs of that time failed. The Valjoux 72c is a variation of the famous Valjoux 23 caliber. 
Besides the calendar the Valjoux72c also got an additional 12-hours counter. The Valjoux 72c was introduced in 1946, and was the successor of the Valjoux 72 VZH
that lacked the calendar function. The 72 was made until 1974. This is a   (** LIMITED EDITION **)  of only 65 pieces in 18K Yellow Gold. reference number was 70.752, and in 1998 the price in Germany was DM 13500 (EURO  6900). The movement was renamed to   ML70.

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ML76: Masterpiece Calendrier Rétrograde

Designed in 1998 by René Baumann, and introduced in the autumn of 2000 the spectacular Calendrier Retrograde was an instant hit for Maurice Lacroix. Many other Masterpiece variations on the Retrograde theme were to follow the next years. I personally think that this original model still is the most striking. A perfectly balanced dial lay-out combined with superior quality of casework and movement finish (like all Masterpieces) make this watch one of my favorites in the series.

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ML77: Masterpiece Venus 188 2nd version

This is the second time ML released a Masterpiece with the Venus 188 movement. The first series was released in 1994 and was not a big hit. Later demand was rising, and ML decided to make a second series with this wonderful chronograph movement. The Venus 188 did not have the much sought after column wheel. After the collapse of  Venus SA in 1966, Valjoux took over, and the Venus 188 was renamed Valjoux 7730. This movement was produced until 1973.

This second edition of the Masterpiece Venus 188 was available in two versions: a   (** LIMITED EDITION **)  of 150 pieces in pink gold, and a  (** LIMITED EDITION **)  of just 100 pieces in steel, with reference number 77.846. I have no prices for this watch. Movement was renamed to     ML77.

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ML83: les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Chronographe Classique Valjoux 23

I saw this watch on an internet auction site, and immediately fell in love with it. I placed a bid, and much to my surprise I was the highest bidder, and this gold, Valjoux 23 based (renamed ML83), watch came in my possession.   Reference number is 83.753-7101, and the watch is a (** LIMITED EDITION **)of just 220 pieces in yellow gold . The watch was released in 1997, and the watch featured in the German Uhren Magazin of January 1998. On the front-page, and in a test together with the related Masterpiece Chronograph Valjoux 72c. The price in 1998 was DM 11500 (EURO 5880). The Valjoux 23 is a ratchet wheel based chronograph with no less than 9 columns. In 1916 the Valjoux was brought in production, and it was produced until 1974. In this long period of time a total of 125.000 pieces were produced

And since this is such a beautiful watch, here is another picture I took of the example in my collection:

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ML88: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Chronographe Jour et Nuit

In 1994 ML introduced this Valjoux 7750 based watch. Reference number was 88.550.This watch fetures a chronograph, 24-hours indicator and a second time-zone plus  a date indicator.The total of movemnet parts is 111,  of whitch  87 are from the Valjoux caliber, and 24 are added by ML. The case is in steel, with a 18K gold bezel in Grain de Riz.The crown is in 18K gold with an Onyx Cabochon.   Later ML renamed this watch as the Chrono Globe, and gave it a more modern look.

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ML88: Masterpiece Chrono Globe

The Chrono Globe can show up to three different world times. The first via the regular hour hand, the second via the rotating inner bezel, and a third via the sub-dial above the 6.  The   ML88 (Or ML88-1)  shows a very uncommon dial lay-out for a Valjoux 7750 based watch. It has a 30-minute counter @12, three time-zones (where the seond time-zone is shown @6, and the third time-zone is shown by the rotating bezel) The date is indicated @3 and the small seconds @9.

This watch is honoured with the "Best Function Award" of the Hong Kong magazine Watch Report in 2003.

The reference number for the watch shown is MP6398-SS001-330. The price in the Netherlands in 2005 is EURO 3700.

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ML91: Les Mécaniques Reserve de Marche Automatic

In the German Uhren Magazin of June 1993 was this ML ad. With a 24 hour indicator at 12 and a power reserve indicator at 6.The reference number is 91.512-7101. This reference number could mean that the movement used is the    ML91.

This is a (** LIMITED EDITION **) of 499 pieces in 18K Yellow Gold. 
The price in Germany in 1993 was DM 5500 (EURO 2812)

 

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ML93: Les Mécaniques Peseux 7046 Handwind

The Peseux 7046 based watch was released twice. In 1993 as a   (** LIMITED EDITION **)  to 1999 pieces. 
It had a round, gold filled case with reference number 93.489. 
The price in Germany in 1993 was DM1395 (EURO 713)

In 1996 came the Masterpiece Rectangulaire Handwind, a square version with the same movement, Peseux 7046, renamed as  ML93. This time the case was also 10 micron gold filled. reference number was 93.693. This time it was not a limited watch. The price was DM 1295 (EURO 662). In 2005 yet another version of the Peseux watch came available. 

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ML99: Les Mécaniques/Masterpiece Venus 188 1st version

Unbelievable that this watch was not a big hit when it first came out in 1994. I like this first edition better than the second edition Masterpiece with the same movement. For this first edition the Venus 188 was renamed  ML99. The watch came in two different models. The first is shown above, and was a    (** LIMITED EDITION **) 18K pink gold watch of 425 pieces. reference number was 99.544-7401. Price in Germany was DM 10.000 (EURO 5112). 
In January 1996 Maurice Lacroix advertised in the German Uhren Magazin that only 25 pieces were still for sale. A statement that ML never made before, indicating that sales were slow for this watch.

The second model was a  (** LIMITED EDITION **) with a Platinum case of just 125 pieces. Reference number was 99.545-7501. The price in Germany was DM 15.000 (EURO 7669)

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ML100: Masterpiece Double Rétrograde

The success of the original Masterpiece Calendrier Retrograde was a reason for ML to release more watches with the Retrograde principle. A logical step was the release of this Double Retrograde, with not only a retrograde date indicator, but also a retrograde second time indicator. The power reserve indicator moved to the 3 o'clock position.

The retrograde indications are based on a highly sophisticated, extremely rare mechanism that works with spiral-wound resetting springs set individually by hand at Maurice Lacroix. All complications of this watch were developed entirely in-house! 

This watch got two Award: 2nd place for the Stainless Steel version in the reader's choice "Goldene Unruh 2005", and 2nd place for the Pink Gold model in the reader's choice "Goldene Unruh 2006" .(A competition of Uhrenmagazin and Focus Online)

The model pictured is a  (** LIMITED EDITION **)  of just 99 pieces in Platinum. It's reference number is MP7018-PL201-930. The price in the Netherlands in 2005 is EURO19900.

Other versions in different material are numbered, but not limited. The price of the Steel version is EURO 4890 (price per 2005 in the Netherlands).
The ML100 is based on the Unitas 6497-1 handwound movement.

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ML101: Masterpiece Peseux 7046

The same movement as in the Les Mécaniques Peseux 7046 is in this 2005 release of the Masterpiece Peseux 7046. This time ML renamed the Peseux 7046 as  ML101.

I like the simple dial lay-out. The date is placed between the 1 and 2, a very uncommon place. It is at the same place as on the Masterpiece Automatique that was released the same year. Might very well be a new style-item for future ML Masterpieces.

The watch with Roman indices shown here is reference number MP7028-SS001-110. The price in the Netherlands in 2005 is EURO 1495.

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ML102: Masterpiece Jours Rétrogrades Tonneau

Another member of the retrograde family is this watch with a Big Date and a Retrograde weekday-indicator. The ETA 2892-2 has been transformed to the ML102.The round ETA movement has been transformed to a tonneau shaped movement aspecially for this Masterpiece Collection.Date-indication is performed by two rotating discs, equipped with an anti-return device, thus ensuring safe synchronisation of the two discs. reference number of the watch shown is MP611-SS001-11E. The price in the Netherlands in 2005 is EURO 4150

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ML102: Masterpiece Jours Rétrogrades

In 2007 ML introduced a round version of the Masterpiece Jours Retrogrades. This model also features the ML102.

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ML103: Masterpiece Grand Guichet Dame

Size does matter for the ladies. That's why ML "created" this Big Date watch with a high BlingBling factor for them. 
I don't know the base caliber for this watch, and frankly....I don't want to know. OK, a few more things...the movement     ML103 has got 34 jewels inside, and there are 50 Top Wesselton VS Diamonds on the outside. Reference MP6016-SD501-170. 
Price in the Netherlands in 2005 is EURO 4795

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ML104: Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde

Perhaps the nicest of the retrograde spin-offs is this Masterpiece Lune Retrograde. This watch comes in three different case materials, two of them are  (** LIMITED EDITIONS **) , the Stainless Steel version is numbered, but not limited

Base for all three is the ML104 movement. It is based on the ETA 6498-1 caliber. 
The ¾ bridge as well as the swan neck precision adjustement were realised by Maurice Lacroix for this movement. Another special feature: the large disk for the moon phase indication.

Shown is the (** LIMITED EDITION **) of 30 pieces in Yellow Gold. Reference  MP7078-YG101-110. Price unknown to me.

Reference  MP7078-WG101-110 is a (** LIMITED EDITION **) of 30 pieces in White Gold. Price unknown to me.

The Stainless Steel version is Reference number  MP7078-SS001-120. This watch was launched in 2006.

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ML105: Masterpiece Régulateur

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ML106: Masterpiece Le Chronographe Limited Editition (Manufacture)

In 2006, after three years of development, ML introduced the very first watch from their factory with a full in-house movement, and what a better way to do this than with a Chronograph movement.

This is a very important milestone for the company, and they succeeded in producing a stunning movement 
with a special filosophy behind it.

The ML106 caliber is a large movement with 36,6mm in diameter and 6,9mm in height. ML chose for a handwound movement, and this leaves the full movement to be admired from the back.
At a leasure 18000 Ah/h the chrono second hand can show up to 1/5th of a second. At "3" is a 60-minute chrono counter. A variation seldom seen with chronographs, and it takes special skills to achieve this.

The start/stop mechanism is controlled by a column-wheel. In addition to the stop and zeroing procedure, 
ML developped a total new patented lever mechanism to co-operate with the column-wheel.

Further the ML106 features 20 jewels, blued steel screws, 2 gold 18K 750 chatons, swan neck precision adjustment, Kif shock protection, polished steel pallet and escapement wheel, Glucydur coiled balance wheel, Nivarox-1 balance spring, and a Nivaflex-1 main spring.

The dial is adorned with special Côtes de Genève "Rayon de la Gloire"  scarcely used for dials.

The diameter of the watch is rather large at 45mm in diameter. The first serie with the ML106 caliber is a     (** LIMITED EDITION **) of 250 pieces in Rose Gold. Price is yet unknown (march 2006). Reference number is MP7008-PG101-120

At Baselworld 2007 ML introduced thSteel version of the Masterpiece le Chronographe. The caliber is the second version of the ML 106, now called    ML 106-2. The movement of the 106-2 is PVD black, and the steel version is waterresistant to 100 meter, instead of the 30 meter of the limited gold version.

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ML106-7: Masterpiece le Chronographe (Manufacture) Squelette

In 2009 another spin-off of the Le Chropnographe was introduced. The Squelette version, equiped with the ML106-7 Manufacture caliber.

ML107: Masterpiece Phase de Lune Japan Only

Japan is a very important market for watch brands. The Japanese seem to like limited editions of fine watches, 
and are prepared to buy a good price for a good watch. This watch is meant for the Japanese market only. It's a     (** LIMITED EDITION **) of only 250 pieces in steel. The movement is named   ML107, based on the ETA 2824-2. 
It seems to have a module placed on top of it. This is all the information I have so far for this watch. 
The price in Japan in 2005 was YEN 368.000 (EURO 2706)

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ML109: Masterpiece Réserve de Marche

In 2006 this lovely model with the  ML109 inside was introduced in the Masterpiece serie.

A power reserve indication is not new for ML or the Masterpiece serie, but on this model the indicator
is very prominent placed from the center. The movement used is the little but wunderful
handwound movement Peseux 7001.

The movement features 29 jewels, blued steel screws, Incabloc shock protection, 
polished steel pallet and escapement wheel, Glucydur balance, Nivarox-1 balance spring, and a Nivaflex-1 main spring.

The watch is available in steel or bi-colour, with roman or arabic indices.

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ML110: Masterpiece Tourbillon Rétrograde

When I first read that Maurice Lacroix was releasing a Tourbillon for their Masterpiece series, I thought...O no, not Maurice Lacroix...Not yet another Tourbillon model on the market. It looks like every watch manufacturer just HAD to release a Tourbillon.

The reason for ML to come up with their own Tourbillon was not the complication of the tourbillon itself, 
but ML tried to find the highest possible combination for their retrograde indications. 
In the last year ML gained an enormous competence and know-how in the field of this traditional indication, and for their 30    th anniversary in 2005, ML planned to give their collectors something unique. The combination of a classic tourbillon and a retrograde date indication is also very rare on the market. All complications are integrated in the tourbillon movement and the retrograde date indication and the power reserve indication are absolutely symmetrical on the dial. The small seconds hand is on the tourbillon cage as usual for classic, high quality tourbillons. This is the most exclusive of all Masterpiece models. The owner's name will be engraved on the watch, as will the individual serial number The individual serial number is also engraved on the movement itself..

Reference number of this (** LIMITED EDITION **) of just 30 pieces in Platinum is MP7088-PL201-110. Movement is the   ML110

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At first sight this Masterpiece Cinq&Cinq looks a lot like the Masterpieces Cinq Aguilles, which was introduced in 1990, being one of the earliest Masterpieces around. But the Cinq&Cinq is a next step on the five central hands theme. From the dial side nothing much has changed (the first "Cinq" in the name stands for the 5 central hands), but from behind everything is new.

A whole new movement is being used. Based on the TechnoTime TT 738 movement, the    ML120 movement is special because it has a power reserve of 120 hours (5 days, the second "Cinq" in the name). This large power reserve can be achieved thanks to two barrels. All functions can be controlled by one crown. And a sophisticated  blocking function prevents the date and date indication from following the time hands  when they are turned in a counter clock-wise direction.

The ML120 is an automatic movement, with 33 jewels, and a diameter of 30,4mm. The movement ticks at 28.800 Ah/H.

The watch diameter is 42mm, and the watch is introduced in 2006.

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Introduced in 2006, the Masterpiece Rectangulaire Petite Seconde gave me a aha-erlebnis. It reminds me instantly of the lovely Masterpiece FHF29 from 1999. And indeed ML did intend to do a kind of re-issue of that watch. But since the FHF29 movement was only available in very small quantities, ML was looking for a worthy successor of that tonneau shaped movement. They found the candidate in the city of La-Chaud-de-Fonds where the small ebauche manufacturer La Joux-Perret makes a fine manufacture form-movement. ML modifies this movement to that of the high standards of the Masterpiece collection, and named it the  ML126.

The handwound movement measures 17,5 x 25 mm. Has a power reserve of 42 hours, and ticks at 21600 A/h.

Shown here is reference MP7009-PG101-110 in pink gold. Pricing is not yet known to me.
 

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ML132: Masterpiece Tonneau Dame

Introduced in 2006, the Masterpiece Tonneau Dame is the 3rd Jewellery watch in the Masterpiece serie designed for women. The other two are the     
Masterpiece Phase Lune Dame and the Masterpiece Grand Guichet Dame.

The Toneau Dame comes in two sizes Tonneau cases, dimensions 26.50 x 36.30 mm (small version) or 31 x 43 mm (large version).

And can be fitted up to 323 diamonds (1.36 carat)

The Masterpiece Tonneau Dame comes with an automatic movement (I yet don't know what movement it is), renamed as ML132. The Movement is hand-decorated automatic ML132 movement, 20 jewels, blued steel screws, Incabloc shock protection, polished steel pallet and escapement wheel, Glucydur balance, Nivarox-1 balance spring, 
Nivaflex-1 main spring, skeleton rotor decorated with Côtes de Genève "Rayon de la Gloire".

This watch was introduced at the same time as the Limited Masterpiece Tonneau Dame, who is available only with a handwound movement, and in the small Tonneau case

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ML134: Masterpiece Squelette Manufacture

 



In 2007 ML introduced an brand new design of the Masterpiece Skeleton, using a Manufacture movement, the    ML134.  The ¾-bridge as well as the pallet have been exceptionally and lavishly skeletonized.

All bridges have a tantalum-coloured PVD surface finish, which is set into sharp relief by the black PVD-coated screws, the red jewels and the gold-plated wheels.

In 2008, a pink gold version of the Masterpiece Skeleton Manufacture was added to the gamma.

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 ML150: Masterpiece Calendrier Retrograde Manufacture

Introduced in 2008 were two versions of, what had became the signature watch of the Masterpiece series, the Calendrier Retrograde. All in line with ML's strategy, the new versions sported a Manufacture movement, the  ML150.

There was the regulat stainless steel version, and a  (** LIMITED EDITION **) of  250 pieces in pink gold. The watch not only got a new, Manufacture, movement, but also the looks were brought in line with the more modern approach by ML.

ML151: Masterpiece Double Retrograde Manufacture

ML152: Masterpiece Lune Retrograde Manufacture

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4. References

It is not easy to find much information about the Masterpieces on-line. There is enough information about the current actual collection, but very little can be found regarding the "older" Masterpieces. It's even harder to find useful information about the limited editions. One would expect that a good source for information about the older 
masterpieces would be Maurice Lacroix itself. But the information that ML provides is minimal, and there is little diversity in their information. I bought their book      "Timeless- The Masterpiece Collection." by Gisbert L. Brunner and Gabriela von Malaisé (ISBN 3-9522592-2-5), printed in Switzerland in 2003. But I was very disappointed by the content.
It is more a very luxury catalog of their 2003 Masterpiece collection, with only little information about the older, limited series.

What is a slightly better source, is the  Maurice Lacroix Media Database. It is meant for the press, but general public can access this area of their website too after registration. This section contains many, many pictures of all ML watches. including many of the older masterpieces. The pictures in this database are the pictures you will see 
all the time on the net and in the catalog. The book mentioned above also uses the pictures of the Media Database. 
I also have used many pictures from this database for this article. (I guess it's OK to use them without permission)

Perhaps the best source (quality of information wise) coming from ML itself is the brochure   "The Movements of the Masterpiece Collection."  In this brochure very useful information is provided about selected movements that were used in the (mainly limited) Masterpieces. If you're lucky you can pick up a copy at your Maurice Lacroix dealer.
I also have an electronic copy. If you're interested in receiving it, drop me an    e-mail.

But the best source did not come from Maurice Lacroix, but from old German   Uhren Magazin. A while ago I bought a whole bunch of these magazins. 
Maurice Lacroix spends a lot of money in the early years to become a household name in the watch industry (and they succeeded in that). 
In return for the heavy advertising in their magazin, Uhren Magazin gave ML a whole lot of editorial exposure, and many ML watches were subject to many pages of free publicity in the form of a test of a watch. This is where I got most information about the older and limited Masterpieces.

Back to the Masterpiece Table

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Thank you for reading these pages. I do not claim that the information on these pages are 100% correct. And I'm pretty sure there are more ML Masterpiece watches. If you have any kind of remarks, corrections, questions, updates, don't hesitate to mail me at h.mennink@upcmail.nl

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  I have regulary watches for sale to fund newer acquisitions. Contact me fof further informations.