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Isaan Travel Information
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Location
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The Isaan are
located in the arid tropics of northeast Thailand. Soil quality is
poor and population density is high. Reforestation programs bulldoze
many acres of forest which was formerly public. This land is planted
with eucalyptus trees in order to get quick profit, which makes it
useless for most other things. This limits the land available, as well
as wood. The result is destroyed forests.
General
Description
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The Isaan are a
hard working, good natured people of Laotian decent. They are in the
process of acculturation to the predominate Central Thai culture, but
they continue to form a distinct cultural group as evidenced by their
own language, eating habits and their distinct social class. The Isaan
farmers have often fought with the Thai government. In the past these
farmers would get punished for such fighting, but more recently the
government has shown more toleration. In any case, governmental
concessions seem far away.
Products /
Crafts
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The production of
silk weaving and baskets involves a deep set division of the sexes.
Traditionally, men have done the basket weaving, and women have made
the clothes. The introduction of industrialized clothing has changed
the demand for traditional methods, and women have shifted to growing
lucrative cash crops. Yet they continue to weave with new time saving
methods of production. This gives them the satisfaction of providing
things for the family as well as selling at the market. Plastics have
been introduced, but have bamboo continues to be used both because it
is plentiful, and because it has a traditional appeal.
Celebrations /
Recreation
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The Thai new
year,
called "Songkran, " is the most notable festival. It occurs
during the hot season. In the Lao tradition, it is supposed to be a
time to visit elders and bless them with a sprinkling, but for young
people, the three day celebration has become a time to douse others
with buckets of water and then smear talcum on their faces. Another
celebration is "Bun Bang Fai," which combines elements of
animism and Buddhism. The two day festival involves merrymaking and
firing off rockets into the sky in order to bring rain.
Art Forms
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"Maw Lom"
music is indigenous to Lao/Isaan culture. It is traditional music
which uses a bamboo instrument, the "kaen," and incorporates
Isaan forms. This music has been modernized and made into an
electrical, fast-paced version called "Maw Lom Sing." It is
considered the ultimate in popular Isaan music.
Khon Kaen
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Khon Kaen lies in
the geographical heart of Thailand's sprawling northeast plateau, an
are known among Thai as I-San. Khon Kaen was established in 1783 and
is a major regional development center and university city. The
provincial capital is 449 kilometers northeast of Bangkok. The
province covers an area of 10,886 square kilometers, parts of which
contain national and forest parks.
Festivals &
Events
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Dok
Khoon Siang Khaen Flower Festival
April 12-15 Bueng Kaen Nakhon, Khon Kaen
This festival coincides with Songkran (the traditional Thai New Year)
and is staged at Bung Kaen Nakhon. Featuring colorful floral
processions, major festival activities include religious rites and
merit-making and I-San folk music. Dancing and entertainment.
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Silk
Festival
November 29-December
10, Khon Kaen City Hall, Khon Kaen
Staged annually in front of Government Houses, this promotes silk
weaving and silk worm culture. Pook Sieo, an I-San tradition promoting
close friendship between people of similar ages, is also celebrated
during this occasion.
Natural
Beauty
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Bung
Kaen Nakorn
This popular lakeside recreation center in the southern part of the
city is well-known for its many footstalls selling popular local
specialties, particularly som tam (spicy raw papaya salad) and kai
yang (barbecued domestic chicken).
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Ubolrat
Dam
Some 50 kilometres. northwest of the provincial capital, this scenic
dam is the largest multi-purpose dam in I-San, generating electricity
for eight neighboring provinces. A reservoir-side restaurant and
opportunities for boat trips make the dam a popular weekend
destination.
Historical
Sites
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Khon
Kaen National Museum
The museum contains a large collection of artifact, particularly from
the Northeast, including those discovered at major archaeological
sites such as Ban Chiang, where the world's first Bronze Age
civilization was believed to have flourished more than 5,000 years ago.
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Non
Muang
This ancient Chumpae site,85 kilometres from the Khon Kaen, is
believed to have been inhabited from prehistoric times until at least
the 10th century AD. Human skeletons and 3,000-year-old bronze tools
have been discovered in the area.
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Phra
That Kham Kaen
This is a 19-metre high at Wat Jediyaphum about 30 kilometres
northeast of Khon Kaen town. The legend has it that two revered monks
on their way to Nakhon Phanom provice spent the night at the site of
present temple where they observed the dead tamarund tree. They told
the villagers to build a Chedi over the 'Kham Kaen' (hardwood
log). The province derives its name form this chedi
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Koo
Puay Noi
This Khmer complex, 76 kilometres from the provincial in Puay Noi
district, is the largest Khmer complex in Khon Kaen. Three brick
pagodas, a laterite palace and beautifully carved doors are of
particular interest.
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Wat
Udom Khonkha Kiri Khet
is an elegant hill-top temple in Mancha Khiri district. It is know for
its ornate gold coloured roof and beautifully decorated doors. The
temple is 67 kilometres from town on Highway 2149, has a display of
the belongings of Luang Poo Pharng ,a monk revered by I-San people.
Adventure
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Phu
Kao-Phu Phan Kham National Park
The 320 square-kilometre area covers part of Ubonrat district and
extends into the neighbouring province of Udon Thani. Deciduous and
evergreen forests offer ample trekking opportunities. The park may be
reached by following the route from Khon Kaen to Ubolrat Dam to Non
Sang.
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Pha
Nok Khao
This impressive outcropping of strangely shaped rocks is 125
kilometres west of the provincial capital along Highway 201 in a
mountainous area extending into Loei province. The Nam Pong River and
Loei's Phu Kradung, a scenic national park, can be seen from this
vantage point.
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Phu
Wieng Park
This area, some 60 kilometres northwest of the provincial capital,
along Route 2038, contains a number of important archaeological sites
with evidence of I-San's earliest inhabitants seen from prehistoric
rock painting. Fossil remains of a herbivorous and carnivorous
dinosaur may be seen at park headquarters at Hua Phu Chon Reservoir.
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Tham
Pha Puang Forest Park
Some 120 kilometres from the provincial capital on the Khon
Kaen-Chumpae highway, a large and interesting cave can be reached by
walking up the hill from the parking area. Lush forests grace the area.
Surin
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Surin is a
province located in the south of the Isan region, roughly 450 km from
Bangkok. It is a major silk weaving area, but is also famous for its
annual elephant roundup. The residents are a cultural mixture of Lao,
Central Thai, Khmer and Suay peoples, resulting in an interesting
blend of dialects and customs. The famous elephant roundup occurs in
the third week of November and is performed by the local Suay people.
The Suay have for centuries been experts in this field, since the days
that domesticated elephants were very much in demand. The show
highlights the work
carried out by these massive beasts and includes tricks performed by
the elephant and his mahout. As is usual in the northeastern region,
there are plenty of ruins from the Khmer period of the 11th and 12th
centuries to be found scattered around the province.
Attractions
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Basketry
Village
Ban Buthom Located 14 kilometers from the province on the Highway 226
(Surin-Sikhorapum route), the village produces rattan baskets of
various types. Basketry shops line both sides of the road.
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Prasat
Sikhoraphum
Located at Amphoe Sikhoraphum about 35 kilometers from Surin. It is
composed of five prang (pagoda, with the principal structure)
measuring 32 meters high. Beautiful designs are engraved onto the
columns. It is believed that the site had been renovated once during
the Ayutthaya Period.
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Silverware
Villages
Ban Khwao Sinarin and Ban Chok Located on Highway 214 (Surin-Chom Phra
Route) with a 4 kilometers right turn between Km.14-15, the villages
produce and put on sale assorted silver ornaments such as belts,
necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings, and watches. A large number of
silverware shops line both sides of the road.
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Prasat
Hin Chom Phra
A small stone castle in Amphoe Chom Phra about 28 kilometers from
Surin town, probably used to be an idol temple built by the Khmer.
Today a large Buddha image is enshrined in front of the structure.
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Elephant
Village
Many elephants can be found at Ban Ta Klang, Tambon Krapho, Amphoe Tha
Tum. The villagers here earn their living by farming and weaving, they
also keep elephants as pets. The elephants here are treated like
family and have been trained well by their mahouts.
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Prasat
Hin Ban Phluang
Situated at Amphoe Prasat, is a little over thirty kilometers from
Surin proper. Although comparatively small in size, it is nevertheless
beautiful and recently renovated.
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Surin
Elephant Show
Held in the third weekend of November. Internationally famous, this
annual event brings crowds of visitors to the provincial capital of
Surin, where over 100 trained elephants are assembled. Among the
spectacular features are wild elephant hunts, tugs of war,
demonstrations of log hauling skills, and a parade of elephants
oufitted for medieval
Sisaket
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The province of Si
Sa Ket is located in the south of the Isan region, bordering with
Cambodia. It wa once an integral part of the Khmer Empire that once
ruled over the region: which can be noted in the vast number of ruins
of Khmer style temples that can be found scattered around the province.
Si Sa Ket became a city in 1759, during the Ayutthaya period. Although
there is little of significance in Si Sa Ket, it is one of the best
places for travelling to the many Khmer ruins scattered around the
southern Isan region.
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Princess
Mother's Park
The park is situated about 1 km from the centre of town, along Kasikam
Rd. It is located in the grounds of Si Saket Agricultural College. It
was built to honour the Princess' Mother on her 80th birthday.
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Prasat
Hin Wat Sa Kampang Yai
This sandstone temple was built on a slope at the edge of Ban Sa
Kampang, about 2 km from the centre. The structure was believed to
have been built around the 10th century when the area was under
control of the Khmers, under King Suriyaworaram. The main entrance
gate in inscribed with Khmer lettering, while the walls have many
carved scenes.
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Further east past
Sisaket stands Preah Vihear possibly
the most beautiful and the least accessible major Khmer temple. It is
legally in Cambodia yet accessible only from Thailand. For unknown
reasons the Franco-Siamese treaty of 1907 left the temple on the
Cambodian side of the boarder. The ongoing dispute between Thailand
and Cambodia over ownership was officially settled at the
International Court of justice in the Hague in 1962. The verdict
favoured Cambodia, and many Thais still feel that this decision is
unjust.
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Its strategic
position has given it military importance in recent history and has
intermittently been used as a Cambodian military post. Its difficult
access made it the last place in the country to fall to the Khmer
Rouge in 1975. Lon Noi troops and the families held on here for days
after the fall of Phnom Penh in 1975. Ironically its brief recapture
in 1998 was the last victory by the residual Khmer Rouge.
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Preah
Vihear has no equal in its natural site. Its builders were
able take full advantage of this when recreating the microcosm of the
Hindu universe, to enter the temple is to experience the decent from
mount Meru. A trip the Khmer temples in the Northeast allow visitor to
see the remains of the great empire without having to cross the
boarder into Cambodia.
How to go to the
Isaan
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By
Air
Don Muang Domestic Airport is the center of planes to Northeast.
Thai Airways, 6 San Luang Road, Bangkok 10100 tel: (662) 280-0060.
The northeastern provinces that can be reached by plane are Nakhon
Ratchasima, Buriram [closest to Surin], Sakon Nakhon, Khon Kaen, Udon
Thani and Ubon Ratchathani.
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Check out the next
homepage for details on getting to the Isaan by air.
Flight
tickless booking system, online booking
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By
Bus
Air conditioned coaches and non-air conditioned buses regularly leave
from Bangkok's Northeastern Bus Terminal on Kamphaeng Phet Road
throughout the day. Telephone (02) 271-0101-5 (non-air-cond) or (02)
279-4484-7(air-cond) for further details.
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By
Rail
The northeastern provinces that can be reached by train are Nakhon
Ratchasima, Buriram, Surin, Si Saket, Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, Nong Khai
and Ubon Ratchathani.
Trains leave Bangkok's Hualampong Railway Station throughout the day.
Check out the next
homepages for more details.
Bangkok
Railway Station , Tel. (02) 224-7788, 223-3762 or 225-0300 for
ticket.
Climate
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