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Thailand
Hilltribes
The Lawa (Lua)
Probably
the least known of the northern Thailand mountain minorities the Lawa are probably the
most interesting. The Lawa were the first people to inhabit the Chiang Mai valley in
historic times and are referred to in myth and legend.
The 'Phu Sae Ya Sae' or 'grandfather,
grandmother' spirits ceremony in which the 'good' represented by Buddha, overcomes
'evil'
represented by a medium in a 'cannibalistic' trance, is still performed annually every
June near Chiang Mai city and has its origins in ancient Lawa ritual. Ancient grave sites
and remnants of old settlements indicate a sophisticated people inhabited the area before
the Thai arrived seven hundred years ago.
Today
the Lawa have either fully assimilated into Thai society as in some villages in the the
Chiang Mai city area and only retain some of their language, or they have been
marginalized into 'hilltribe' villages in the Mae La Noi and Mae Chaem
ares. They might
sometimes be seen in the market at Mae Sariang. These 'hilltribe' Lawa are mixing and
intermarrying with the neighboring Karen.
They
are not migratory, like many of the hilltribes, but live in settled villages that have
been there for sometimes hundreds of years. They cultivate wet padi rice and sell
vegetables and forest products to the local markets.
In
dress they are similar to the Karen except the women wear a short sarong with a
'lightning' pattern, wear a lot of brightly colored beads around their
necks, and can
occasionally be seen with black lacquered leg bands made of cane. Their language is of the
Mon-Khmer group and they have many rituals and spirits of which the Karen are very
afraid.
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